Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Circle Line Pub Crawl 2009

And so it begins


And so another year has come around, another birthday, and another London pub crawl with a bunch of people. This year we undertook the dreaded Circle Line Pub crawl. After weeks of meticulous research, we were ready to go, with a detailed itinerary. The trick was that we were planning to do this on Saturday (24 Oct), and that meant we had to find pubs that were open in the City on Saturday, at the time we were passing through. We also had some "day trippers" planned, who would be coming up for Wales or Gloucester and returning the same day - so we needed to be at Paddington at strategic times. We still had the dreaded 26 pubs in 12 hour problem that we faced with Monopoly, but given that the transport issues were all solved (ho! ho!), it should be much easier. But remember, they call for "last drinks" at 23:00, so we are continuously up against the clock.

So with an itinerary all planned, 8 of us (Matt, Kathy B, Sheeds, Liz, Lewis, Sarah, Darren, and Kat to join us later, as does Mark) agreed to meet at Victoria Station before 10:40. I had a quick trip the day before to WH Smiths to pick up some pens for people to write in their itineraries (holy crap did I really spend 25 quid on pens? What was in the ink? Sweet Jeebus, I hadn't even had a drink at this stage)

The night before Fri 23 Oct) Kath and I popped into the first pub (the 'Spoons) to see where it was, and also caught the tube back one stop to the Fox, the last pub - so we knew what we'd be looking for.

Interesting omen: I know it's not really polite to laugh at others misfortunes, but when we were at the 'Spoons on Friday, around 5pm, we saw a guy with a round of drinks walk outside to his mates sitting at one of the outside balcony tables. Or least he would have - he misjudged where the glass sliding door was and instead walked smack into the window. He kept hold of all the drinks but his mates (and us too) just cracked up!

Pub 1, 10: 40 Victoria Station, Wetherspoons


Victoria

Maybe we should have read this as another omen, but after Kathy and I got there, only Lewis was able to find the first pub unassisted. Sarah had to go back to the hotel for her Oyster card, and Darren went to the wrong pub. So mobile phones at the ready ...
"Matt, are you at the pub?"
"Yeah"
"Which pub are you at?"
"Wetherspoons"
"I'm at a Wetherspoons"
"It's the one actually in the station, Darren"
"Oh..."

To be fair to young Mr Morgan, this Wetherspoons' pub is actually called Wetherspoons. Confusing, isn't it?

Sheeds and Liz didn't even know the name of the pub, and then couldn't find the main concourse in Victoria (again. there were some major renovations going on). So remembering there was a back door I raced out through the back of the pub and began to scan the concourse. And again with telephony hijinks ...

"Sheeds, mate, where are you?"
"I'm standing next to Kath."

Cheeky bastard came in through the front door. Sheeds and Liz had their overnight trundler bag - they had just got in from Bristol, and hadn't checked into their hotel yet.


Wetherspoons in Victoria station

Liz was a bit squeamish at the thought of pre-11 am beers, so had a softy. I had a quick half of Godfather and we're on our way at 10:55, no sign of Kat, nor of Mark from Newport. So 7 of us plus a trundler bag were off! Mark rings as we head to the platform to say he has wussed out!


Oh lord, after that curry last night, 10:45 beers can't be good ... I'm not sure if I'm going to enjoy this

Pub 2, 11:10 St James's Park, The Feathers

St. James's Park

A dash to the platform in Victoria and a dutiful wait for the Circle Line (letting a District Line train go past, after scowls from Darren when we talked of catching it instead), we get to St. James's Park. Sheeds and I go out one exit, and Kath and the rest out the other (OK, it was shorter that way Kath). The station actually holds the headquarters for London Undergound, Inc., and it's a really impressive building.


St. James's House, head quarters of The Tube. It didn't look anything like a tube to me, either ...

But was just as impressive was the pub, The Feathers.

All this bloody way and it's still the Prince of Wales feathers

Thanks Andy for the suggestion. This place was just great. It was a Shepherd Neame pub (da, da-dah, da-da-da-dah), but rather have have the usual obligatory Spitfire I instead opted for a half of Late Red. It was great. Must remember to come back to this place when we get more time. Down the hatch, and with an eye on the clock we're off ... still no sign of Kat though, so it's still just 7 of us.

Exiting "The Feathers" - Kathy B, Lewis, Darren, Liz, Sarah, Sheeds. And yes, we are blurry already.


Pub 3, 11:35 Westminster, The Red Lion

A short and uneventful tube ride (the perpetually funny "is this our stop?" had already started), we made it to Westminster. This is of course a snazzy tube station, for tourists, MPs and civil servants alike.
Westminster

We hop off the tube and who should we spot? Kat! Huzzah. Although ... she is looking a little seedy. Rather giggly and hungover Kat here ("At home 3:30 am, up at 6:30 to catch the coach from Gloucester" ) She hadn't been to the pub yet but seemed worse than any of us.

The Red Lion is easily spotted from the station (many of us had been here before on trips to London).

The Red Lion, as frequented by Her Majesty's Civil Servants.

Kat and Liz still opted for the softdrinks, Sheeds was a little timid but carried on manfully. I had a half of Chiswick Bitter. Three halves down and not yet midday.

The merry crew, enroute from the Red Lion back to Westminster

According to our timetable we should be at the next pub, so now Kat has joined us we have a full complement, and we're off!

Matt & Sheeds in Westminster, waiting for a train to Embankment

Pub 4, 12:05 Embankment, The Ship and Shovel

Embankment

Slightly longer wait for the tube, allowing everyone time to catch up with their note taking and to pose for high quality photos. In contrast to the earlier stops, Embankment was bustling as we just cross over into the afternoon. Following the directions on our itinerary, we dart around a few little alleys and arcades -

The Ship and Shovel ... “Oh ... this place, we've been here before”.

Yes, the Ship and Shovel, the pub-of-two halves – one half on one side of the alley and one half on the other. Kat and Liz are still feeling the impact of their respective hijinks on the previous Friday night, and opt again for soft drinks.
Kat, Lewis, Sheeds and Liz ... is Kat actually recoiling from the beer Lewis is holding?

Lewis said "Matt, don't you feel like a girl, ordering a lemonade?"
"Mate, I feel like a blouse for ordering halves".

A half of Pickled Partridge. Down the hatch, and back on the trail again, returning to Embankment station. This is our last tube connection, with lots of walking to follow. We're a little behind schedule, but no need to panic yet.

Pub 5, 12:30 Temple, The George

Temple

A bit of a hunt for this pub, but out trusty directions serve us well.

Heading down Fleet Street on the way to the George

We were aiming for 12:23 start but we got here 12:30. Not too hard to find, over the road from the Courts of Justice.

The George

I opt for half of Doombar. And the inevitable “We're Dooooooooooooooooooooooomed!” The crew is holding up well, and Liz and Kat are now thinking about actually joining us in a drink. Yet this is only pub number 5, and its a long day. Due to the closure of Blackfriars station, our next leg is a walk along Fleet Street.

Kath outside the Courts of Justice


Sheeds on Fleet Street, indicating his approval so far


Pub 6, 12:45 Blackfriars proxy stop: Tipperary

So now we reach the first set of problems. Blackfriars is closed. And all the pubs we want to go to are a fair walking distance from the Tube. Plus not all the pubs are open on Saturday. And some stops are so close together it is quicker to walk. So we are doing the next few legs as "walking connections", keeping an eye out for bonus stops, and visiting the Tube station for a few piccies where possible. And the first detour is a proxy for Blackfriars station, which is a little spit and saw dust place called Tipperary.
"It's a long way from home"

So we're standing at the bar, pub number six. “So how's your day been?” “Pretty 'orrible, we just got burgled”. And sure enough, at the end of the bar were the Boys in Blue taking a statement from Mrs. Landlord. Apparently some twat had just rifled through the upstairs flat, shortly after opening as they were setting up the kitchen. A half of Adnams Bitter, and we're off again.

Pub 7, 13:00 Mansion House, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

Mansion House - we didn't Tube this leg, but walked past a bit later

Our old friend from the Monopoly Pub Crawl of the year before, into the delightfully pokey Ye Older Cheshire Cheese.

"Ye Olde ..."

It was dark as ever inside,

"Rebuilt 1667, light fittings still awaiting a sparky ..."

but cheery enough to have a half of Samuel Smiths Bitter from the Antipodean barmaid.

Luckily we had a quick half before a large and noisy crowd came in, and then back out to Fleet Street. Heading down the hill towards the Mansion House and Cannon Street , we had some wonderful touristy sightseeing.

Darren. And Paul. And a sign that says "Paul". And St. Pauls. And "Ye Olde", Fleet Street

"Jesus, will you look at THAT ..."

St. Paul's Cathedral

And then a piece of good luck ...


Pub 8, 13:30 Cannon Street,
O'Neills

This leg was “the killer”, as we were in that part of The City that catered to the banking sector, and so was mostly closed on Saturday. The walk to the next pubs took us right past the station,
Lewis, Darr and Sheeds outside Cannon Street Station

but we then had planned to go on a safari to find an open pub. But hooray – the O'Neils at Cannon Street was actually open,
O'Neills on Cannon Street, saving us a 25 minute walk

so we snuck in there instead, making up an enormous amount of time. A freezing cold half of Caffreys, then off again towards Monument.

Lewis, Mr Morgan, Sarah, Kat and Sheeds, between O'Neills and HD&Q

Pub 9. 13:55 Monument, Hung, Drawn and Quartered
The Monument

Monument station

And onwards! We're actually ahead of the timetable now. Pub number 9 at 13:55, a buffer of 12 minutes (which we would need later!). Hung, Drawn and Quartered for Monument,

Hung, Drawn and Quartered

and I have a half of Fullers' Red Fox. Liz and Sheeds say "Oh this place, we've been here already".

Kat, Darr and Sheeds at the HD&Q

"Hi honey, I've snuck into your photo ..."

Bloody hell, they've only been to London once or twice before and they've already been to some of the pubs on this itinerary! And now to the Tower ...

Kath, Matt and Darren with Tower Bridge in the background - reminiscing after last year's mad dash across the bridge

Pub 10, 14:10 Tower Hill, Liberty Bounds


Tower Hill

We are now substantially (20 minutes) ahead of time. Amazing! The 'Bounds was another 'Spoons bar, not too bad, we've seen better and worse. Nothing remarkable about this pub, except it was my first Spitfire of the day.

Liberty Bounds. Despite the name, we had no opportunities to take liberties.

The other difference was that our overland trek was complete, and we would be returning, truly, to the Circle Line, and tubing most of the rest of the day. But a return to the Tube saw the Great Debate.

"The Debate", Tower Hill

Should we follow the route of the Circle Line, and use any and all means of transport, as I contested, or should we, as Mr. Morgan argued, only use Circle Line trains? No District, no Hammersmith & City, just Circle line trains. This debate was triggered by an unexpected delay in Circle line trains - we watched several District line trains go by, all heading to the same stop. I was getting jack of the delay and the ideals put forward by "Mr Purity",

My opinion is obvious

and was ready to hop the next District line train and sod it all, when Kathy B pointed out that the next District line train didn't even go to Aldgate

Kathy showing her disapproval

... so the point was moot. Anyway, we were 10 minutes ahead of time when we got to Liberty bounds, but the train delay meant we lost that buffer ...


No means NO! Paul. Oh OK, just this once then.

Pub 11, 14:55 Aldgate, Aldgate Exchange

Aldgate

... and then, for the second year on the trot, we got lost trying to find the bloody Aldgate Exchange (the 5 pints we'd had had nothing to do with it of course).

Can someone please pass me an allen key?

Round round and round we go, can't find the stupid bloody thing, and then Sheeds asks someone for directions and we're there. The Ikea Pub!

Lewis and Sarah, and the lovely formica.

We're now 10 minutes behind, damnit! A half of Courage Best Bitter. Quickly down the hatch and back to the tube. And after all that faffing about looking for the pub, we can't afford to wait another ten minutes for a Circle Line train and are forced to catch a Metropolitan Line - so the argument at Tower Hill was just a load of bollocks after all.


Pub 12, 15:20 Liverpool Street, Hamilton Hall

Liverpool Street

A much loved pub from last year. "It's so nice I didn't even know it was a Wetherspoons". What praise indeed. A half of Hobgoblin.
It's like an old friend ...

We bumped into some "Monopoly Board" pub crawlers, but they were at Pub 3 at 3:30 pm, so they had a long push ahead of them. Kath grabbed a quick pastie from the guys out the front, and Liz and Sheeds nipped off to check into their hotel and drop their bag off. So the 6 of us headed on.

Interlude - 15:45 Moorgate - no pubs open
Yes Kat, very funny. Moorgate.

We knew there were not pubs open in this part of the city on Saturday so we had no destination at Moorgate. Still, a quick photo op. Of course, as soon as I jumped on the platform to take the photo, Kat starts yelling "quick quick quick it's going" so I blurred the shot - much to the delight of everyone else as I sprinted back in the other door - to a very stationary train, full of giggles.

Pub 13, 16:05 Farringdon, The Castle

Farringdon - ha, you were expecting Barbican, weren't you!

And now a disaster. I had, against all hope, actually managed to find a pub open around Barbican, The Old Red Cow. It looked great. And heading to Smithfield market, yes, there was the Red Cow, and it was open. Well, actually, open for a private party, so closed. Bugger. So back on the tube, and we head to Farringdon. And for all the ONS staff this was a familiar sight (the station is near the ONS London office, and is the most convenient for those of us who come from Paddington for work). Anyway, the Castle - and quite oddly they had no ale on tap.

The Castle. Starring Michael Caton, with Charles (Bud) Tingwell. .
Ahh, the Serenity.

So a half of Kirin Ichiban. How very odd.
The gang trooping in to the Castle.
Paper work is fun. Well after 13 halves it is.
Timing is all mucked up, because of that cow The Red Cow. So back to the tube and off to the Cross.

16:35 Pub 14, Barbican substitution, The Euston Flyer
Barbican

"What's he up to, 593?"

"Oh, I think he wants to be hero, 716."

"Haven't you rednecks got names instead of numbers? "

"'Tis a Welsh regiment, man! I am Jones from Builth Wait, he is Jones from Builth Wells, and there are four more Joneses in C Company! Confusing, isn't it, Dutchy?"


Yes, it's getting confusing now. First, Liz and Sheeds were still MIA. Where were they, what was taking so long? Next, we were joined by Steven (hope this is the right link),
Lewis, Steven and Sarah, at King's Cross
a friend of Lewis's. So there are 7 of us again. But we had missed a pub at Barbican, because of that private function, and ripped through the Castle at Farringdon, but when we go to King's Cross there were two pubs almost adjacement (Hooray!), so we went to both. First, we went to the Euston Flyer.

The Euston Flyer. Not in Euston, that's the next stop. And it's for Barbican, that's the stop before last. Erm, yes. We're in Kings Cross.

This was a bloody great pub, and they had fantastic choice of beer. I had a half of seafarer. Or rather, half a half of Seafarer (what, a quarter?), since I split the rest of it, and then had a half to make up for it. So 14 and a half halves now. So we're in Kings Cross, having a drink for the Barbican. But hopping next door we came to ...

16:55 Pub 15, Kings Cross, O'Neills

King's Cross

... the 15th pub, another O'Neills. So we popped in to make up the correct tally. So another half of Caffreys.
It's starting to feel like this. Darren, Kat and Lewis (I think) at the Kin'gs Cross O'Neills.

Matt & Mr. Morgan at Kings Cross

So there's seven of us, and we're back on the correct tally after making up for Barbican. Back to the tube, and we're off again!

Post Office Tower. Keep an eye out for giant white kittens ...

17:35 Pub 16, Euston, Green Man subsitute for Crown and Anchor

And lost again. Lost lost lost. Where the bloody hell is the Crown and Anchor? And where is Sheeds? We're all totally, totally lost. And so confused I forgot to take a photo of the roundel. We spy a pub, the Green Man, and choose that as a substitute. Except the Green Man was supposed to be the next pub.
The Green Man at Great Portland Street for Euston, the 16th pub and not 17th as planned

We've walked so far we've gone to the next stop! Bloody hell, still 10 pubs to go and it's getting messy. So half of Old Speckled Hen at the Green Man instead of the Crown and Anchor, which, like Sheeds, could not be found. We're a bit behind the clock now too. But now we need another pub too. But no need to tube it since we've already walked to Great Portland Street.

17:50 Pub 17, Great Portland Street, Albany last minute substitute

Great Portland Street

So we find a pub, hooray! The Albany, and we pop in for a quick half - I have London Pride. We've made up time, and are slightly ahead of the clock. But still no Sheeds. Where is he?

The Albany

18:25 Pub 18, Baker Street, The Globe
Sherlock Berger at Baker Street. Elementary.
And dead on the timetable, we hit the Globe.
The Globe at Baker Street (well, Marylebone actually)

Thankfully we grab a seat outside where there is a little sanity.

Darren, Kat and Sarah outside the Globe

Steven, Lewis and Kathy B outside the Globe

Half of Bombardier. No Sheedy though. And I think we say goodbye to Steven near here too.

19:00 Pub 19, Edgware Road, another Green Man, substitute for the Chapel

OK, the beer is hitting hard now. We make it to Edgware Road,
Mrs B at Edgware Road

but can't find the Chapel. Bloody hell. Pub-dar failure. But Sheeds has made contact with us (yay!), it took them 4 hours (!) to check into their hotel (they had been double booked and then cabbed to their new place, so they were not happy!). Ironically, Sheeds could find the Chapel - he was there, while we had wussed out and gone to another (different) Green Man as we were getting desperate.
The Green Man, instead of the Chapel
Sheeds agrees to pop ahead and meet us at the next pub.

Sarah, Lewis and Kat in the Green Man at Edgware Road. Looks more like yellow to me though.


19:25 Pub 20 Paddington, Mad Bishop and Bear

No Matt, you don't look like Paddington Bear, just look like you've forgotten your medication

Slightly behind the clock, we get into Paddington and I race up the stairs to the Mad Bishop. I order a half of London Pride, and since Liz & Paul will be joining us, I order two doubles of Jameson. By the time everyone else piles in I'm getting nervous. A quick call to Sheeds and they said they were pushed for time so went to the next pub. Uh oh. So I finish the beer and then neck one of the Jamo's (ouch!) and Kathy has some of the other. Weeeeee! A sad goodbye to Kat as she hops the coach back home, and we're off. No photo of the pub, I forgot with all the excitement.

19:55 Pub 21 Bayswater, Kings Head

Bayswater

Into the Kings Head, and we finally meet up with Liz & Paul (hooray!) who tell their tales of woe (oh no!).
Kings Head. How did he get any, with that beard?

More London Pride. But we're 10 minutes behind the clock so we head off again.

The Self Portrait - always attractive.

We're all getting a little tired and emotional here. Giggles aplenty. Still 10 minutes under the kosh so no time for relaxing.

20:20 Pub 22, Notting Hill Gate, The Hillgate

Notting Hill Gate. No sign of Hugh Grant

Memory and bookkeeping are failing me here - I don't remember what specific drink I had. At any rate, we're still behind time, so a quick visit to the Hillgate and we're back to the Tube. From the photos it seems we did have fun on the train though!

The Hillgate

Sheeds on the platform at Bayswater on the way to Notting Hill Gate

"A big brown bear walked into the Burgundy Bar, ..."

20:55 Pub 23 High Street Kensington, Prince of Wales (substitute)

High Street Kensington

Over 10 hours on the road, and it's starting to tell. Mr. Morgan for one is looking a little seedy, and in the type of logic that is associated with over 22 halves, decides "switching to Bacardi and coke might make me feel better". Um, yes, it might.

Mr Morgan, enroute from Hillgate to High Street Kensington. "A picture says a thousand words". Two of them are "Bacardi & Coke".
It might not, either. But so we search for the Elephant & Castle, following our directions. Everyone is really tired.
Kathy & Liz, with Darren, Kensington

Not getting too pissed (well, maybe Darren is), just really tired. And we have difficulty deciding on the exit from the station, and then we can't find the pub. But we find the Prince of Wales instead. So "last minute substitution" after 10 hours, 22 halves.
The "Prince of Wales" at High Street Kensington - more bloody Welsh feathers.

But I do get to half another half of Spitfire. We're 15 minutes behind the clock now, but we've allowed for that in the timing for the last pub, so we should be OK. Should be as long as we keep on track. But hurry up now, we can't wait the 10 minutes for the next Circle Line, and hop a District Line to ...

21:10 Unexpected Detour to Earl's Court
We did not want to be here - it's not even on the bloody Circle Line

... Earl's Court. Bloody hell, the train when down the south western spur instead of around to Gloucester Road. Damn and bloody blast it! This is not helping our time struggles! But much giggling all around, we dash over the bridge to the return platform, and this train takes us directly to Gloucester Road.

21:20 Pub 24, Gloucester Road, The Stanhope Arms


Gloucester Road


Not to be confused with the arms of the Chief Minister of the ACT. Cue sound of helicopters ...?

The pub is direcly across the road from the station, as advertised, and causes us no connection problems. I have yet another half of Spitfire (yay!). 24.5 halves and a double whiskey so far. And we're all having a good time despite being really tired.
Sarah and Sheeds at the Gloucester Road station

Lewis and Kathy B at the Stanhope Arms ... the end is within sight!

Mr. Morgan and Sarah at the Stanhope Arms

21:55 Pub 25, South Kensington, Zetland Arms

South Kensington, and I start to relax

We're so close now - we can tell we are going to make it... yes, we will do it, it is within our grasp!

Z is for Zetland. And the end is near ...

The Zetland requires a bit of navigation but we find it, and pop in for the second last half of the night (although I didn't write this one down). And then back to the Tube for the last connection!

22:15 Pub 26, Sloane Square Fox & Hounds

Kathy B at Sloane Square - we're almost done!!!

Yes, yes, yes, sweet Jesus yes! Out of the station, turn left, second street on the left, then first right and we've done it! Into the Fox and Hounds for a half,
Foxy Loxy at Sloane Square

and a round of photos,
Kathy B, Matt, Sarah, Darr, Liz and Sheeds (we've lost Lewis somewhere, perhaps taking the photo?)

We've done it, another birthday under the belt, and we've got a great sense of achievement! But we're all really tired and as we ease into "last drinks" (I have a pint of Young's), Lewis & Sarah escort Darren back to his hotel

Darren, Sarah & Lewis, just before "last orders please", taking Darr back to his hotel
"Bye mate, thanks for a bloody good day!"

So we stay until closing, and then Sheeds & Liz say goodbye to us
See ya guys!
and Kath and I head back to Victoria. Tally for the day:
  • 26.5 x halves (remember, I spilt a beer at the Euston Flyer and had to make it up)
  • 1 pint (an extra manly reward at Fox and Hounds, last orders)
  • 1 double whiskey (that I bought for Sheeds when he caught up with us at the Mad Bishop & Bear, but he had already skipped ahead to the next station)

23:30 Epilogue, Victoria, Burger King

"The circle is now complete." We made it back to Victoria, very tired but very satisfied. A little tipsy but not too bad considering.

A tired Kathy B back at Victoria!
Last photo for the birthday boy!

Kath and I stopped off for a quick burger and then back to the hotel room. We both felt pretty good the next day too (and went to Buckingham Palace, and then out to Chinatown for lunch). But as we were heading home on Sunday, we saw that the Circle Line would have been closed - entirely! - the week before and the week after!

Oh no!
Amazing, we'd snuck in our adventure in between a series of planned stoppages! So we had a great day and fortuitously avoided a complete mess. A great time had by all, but all very tired.

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